day 3 continued:
cruise on the Bosphorus, Eminonü on a sunday, dinner in Hoça Pasha and two puddingshops (Lale and a real one)
After
a while the boat appears to navigate along the shore with the left side
(photo below at the Dolmabahçepalace) but we keep sitting on our
side persistently, supposing we will be on the right (=closest) side on
the way back.
At
the second bridge and the Rumeli Hisari (Fortress of Europe) we turn around
and go along the opposite (Asian) shore. At last we catch on: we are on
the wrong side again (still)! Stupid!
Tip: when you are sitting at the wrong side at a TurYol cruise , move to
the other side right away, otherwise you keep sitting on the wrong side!
Dinner in Hoça Pasha and in a real puddingshop
We
had planned to go on a long cruise on monday and travel back along the shore
(like in
TTP).
But because the original plans are now mixed up anyway, we decide to take
a short (few hours) cruise with TurYol (does not moor at any quay, it just
goes up the Bosphorus and back again), so we we are sure not miss out on
sailing the Bosphorus.
At Eminönü quay there is a pleasant bustle: the
Istanbul residents like to make a cruise on a sunny sunday afternoon as well. It is kind of an hassle to get aboard.
We sit on the right side, expecting the boat to go with this side (starboard)
closest to the shore.
Cruise on the Bosphorus and
Eminönü
After
visiting the Blue Mosque we go east of it, to
Backpackers
Travel, to arrange a transfer to Sabiha Gökcen Airport and also
a guided tour to the sights that are not so easy to reach by foot or tram,
like the Yedikule fortress and the Chora church(
day4).
(again advised by
TurkeyTravelPlanner)
Next we walk back through the park, have tea at the famous
Lale
Puddingshop, in the 1960s en 70s meeting point for overland travellers
to Afghanistan and Nepal. It is nice, but the romantic hippie atmosphere
has got lost somewhere.There are just some old black-and-white photographs
on the wall showing how it used to be.
But the light got better and better. Photo at the right: once more the
Beylerbeyipalace, this time closer up.
Photo below right: Kiz Kulesi, Maiden's or Leander's Tower (Leander wanted
to swim across the Hellespont to his beloved Hero but drowned, whereupon
Hero threw herself from this tower)
Or: refuge of a pincess who wanted to escape the prophesy that she would
die from a snake's bite (the snake hid in a basket of figs and bit her
after all)
Photo below, the Golden Horn at our return there.
Back on the quay ofEminönü. Photo to the left: fishermen on
the Galatabridge, photo below it: everywhere there are stalls where you
can buy pickled vegetables or roasted maize or chestnuts.
Nico buys a pretty wooden shaving brush at the quay from some peddler.
Useful
as well as nice souvenir!
We wander along the New Mosque(Yeni Camii, new i.e. from 1663)and the
Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi,
see next day) to Hoça Pasha for dinner.
The beautiful photo of the square between the mosque and the Spice Bazaar
was made by Roos (to the left).
Below it shoeshiners near the Spice Bazaar.
Photos above and to the right: somewhere along the road between the Spice
Bazaar and Sirkeci, reminds me of Paris
In the Netherlands we have 'coffeeshops' but in Istanbul they have puddingshops
(muhallebicisi).
Earlier this day we were at Lale Puddingshop, but there we only had tea
and cake.
After dinner (Iskender Kebab)at Kasap Osman (Osman the Butcher, recommended
by TTP,
the food was good but the service rather curt)to a real puddingshop close
to it ( Orhaniye Caddesi or Hoça Pasha Sokagi, the puddings are
exhibited in the window so you can't miss it)and tasting very good (photo
to the right)(and friendly people)
The businesscard from Kasap Osman was nice with on the reverse a saying
by Atatürk: "We need nothing, just diligence! "